tea experiences
Explore the eclectic languages of tea through attention and intention
Yì Chá is an original contemplative tea practice drawing on the Taiwanese tradition of lǎo rén chá 老人茶and the Japanese tea arts (more specifically senchadō). Inspired by the Cháozhōu 潮州 tea brewing tradition originated from the Guǎngdōng 廣東 province of China and intimately linked with dān cōng 单枞 oolongs and their birthplace (Phoenix Mountain / Fènghuáng shān 鳳凰山), Taiwanese tea practitioners developed their own flavor of gōng fu chá 工夫茶[1] through the active development of the tea arts movement (chá yì 茶艺) and specialized tea houses through the 70s and 80s. This period saw the introduction of several novelties aiming to create new ways of experiencing, enjoying, and ‘ritualizing’ tea[2], most being related to aesthetics (tea stage / chá xí 茶席[3] and floral arrangement / chā huā 茶花), social events (such as wú wǒ tea gatherings 無我茶會[4]), as well as utensils. Two new tools were indeed implemented, now commonly used among tea enthusiasts and groups: the chá hǎi 茶海[5] (typically known as gōng dào bēi 公道杯 in China and overseas Chinese communities), a pitcher (fairness cup) used to decant the tea equally into the cups and inspired by the yuzamashi 湯冷まし found in Japanese senchadō 煎茶道 tea ceremony (where it serves to cool down the water prior to its insertion inside the teapot); and the aroma / fragrance cup[6] (wén xiāng bēi 闻香杯), a distinctive tall and narrow cup used in conjunction with a regular tasting cup to – as the name suggests – appreciate the scent stemming from the tea. Senchadō originated in Edo-period Japan in the 18th century, emerging among literati (bunjin 文人) who were influenced by Chinese scholar culture and sought a more informal, contemplative alternative to chanoyu centered on loose-leaf tea.
- Ideal for: People new to tea or looking to experience a contemplative, grounding way of enjoying tea.
- Teas shared: Organic, naturally grown, artisan Taiwanese teas tailored to the event and availability
- Number of guests: 2 – 4
- Duration: 60 to 90 min
Notes
[1] The art of brewing tea with skill. Informally known as lǎo rén chá 老人茶 (old man tea) in Taiwan.
[2] Steps of the Taiwanese lǎo rén chá 老人茶 style:
– 1. Wēn hú tàng 溫壺燙, “warming the pot and heating the cups”: the utensils are rinsed using hot water ;
– 2. Jiànshǎng jiā míng 鑒賞佳茗, “appreciate excellent tea”: the tea leaves are examined and appreciated (aroma and appearance) ;
– 3. Wū lóng rù gōng 烏龍入宮, “the black dragon enters the palace”: the teapot is filled with the tea leaves ;
– 4. Xuánhú gāo chōng 懸壺高沖, “rinsing from an elevated pot”: the tea leaves are rinsed using hot water poured from some height ;
– 5. Chūnfēng fú miàn 春風拂面, “the spring wind brushed the surface”: debris and bubbles are scooped away before closing the teapot ;
– 6. Zhòng xǐ xiān yán 重洗仙顏, “bathe the immortal twice”: the tea is steeped for a certain time ;
– 7. Xíng yún liú shuǐ 行雲流水, “a row of clouds running water”: the first brew is discarded (part of the process of rinsing the tea leaves) ;
– 8. Zài zhù qīng quán 再注清泉, “direct again the pure spring / pouring again from a low height”: the teapot is filled once again with hot water (at a low height) for the subsequent brews ;
– 9. [if aroma cups are used] Ōu bēi mù lín 毆杯沐淋, “bathing the scent cup”: see section [6] below for more information ;
– 10. [if aroma cups are used] Lóngfèng chéng xiáng 龍鳳呈祥, “the dragon and phoenix in auspicious union”: see section [6] below for more information ;
– 11. [if aroma cups are used] Lǐyú fānshēn 鯉魚翻身, “the carp turns over”: see section [6] below for more information ;
– 12. Jìng fèng xiāng míng 敬奉香茗, “respectfully receive the fragrant tea”: tea is ready to be drunk, usually in three sips per the etiquette (the first one to appreciate the flavor of the tea, the second one to enjoy most of its body, the third and last one to enjoy its aftertaste) ;
[3] Raphaël’s chá xí principles strongly revolve around the use of utensils spontaneously found in or gifted by Nature, each conveying their own unique history and raw beauty through their color, texture, and shape. They give birth to an organic, intimate, and humble sharing that allows tea to freely express the universality of its languages.
[4] Wú wǒ 無我 gatherings (translated as “selfless”, based on the central Buddhist concept of anattā, with wú 無 expressing void/absolute emptiness and wǒ 無 referring to mine/self/being) are special social events where tea drinkers bring their own tea and set, and share tea in a circle. Each participant brews the tea leaves she/he has brought into several cups reflecting the number of individuals present. If four cups are used, three will be served to the three people sited on your left, with the last cup being kept for yourself. You will also be served an equal amount of cups from the people sited on your right. When the tea has been drunk, additional infusions can be performed as needed. Depending on the number of people, more circles can be formed. This type of tea sharing typically follow a set of specific principles and rules, which are detailed through this article.
[5] Fair cups are commonly made of glass, which allows one to observe the color of the tea liquor. Two main decanting techniques are used (each influencing the characteristics of the brew that is served), with the first one being the most popular: decanting and serving individually each infusion, or decanting two or three infusions into the pitcher then serve. The chá hǎi is a utensil Raphaël is particularly fond of, as it slows down and make one’s practice more mindful.
[6] Aroma cups are used as follows. The tea is first poured into the aroma cup (ōu bēi mù lín 毆杯沐淋, “bathing the scent cup”) and covered with the tasting cup (put upside down). Both cups are then held with the hands (lóngfèng chéng xiáng 龍鳳呈祥, “the dragon and phoenix in auspicious union”) and quickly flipped over (lǐyú fānshēn 鯉魚翻身, “the carp turns over”). The aroma cup (now on top) is lifted to release the tea liquor into the tasting cup (jìng fèng xiāng míng 敬奉香茗, “respectfully receive the fragrant tea”). The gentle fragrance of the tea, clinging to the surface of the now empty aroma cup, can now be enjoyed. After the appreciation stage, guests are to drink the tea directly from the tasting cup, usually in three sips per the etiquette: the first one to appreciate the flavor of the tea, the second one to enjoy most of its body, the third and last one to enjoy its aftertaste. Note that aroma cups are always made of porcelain, which better highlights the fragrant notes of the tea. Raphaël only uses them on rare occasions, specifically when tasting a brand-new tea or conducting side-by-side comparisons.
The Cháozhōu 潮州 (or Teochew in a local romanisation) gōng fu chá 功夫茶 brewing tradition originated from the Cháoshàn 潮汕 area in the Guǎngdōng 廣東 province of China, home of the Phoenix Mountain (Fènghuáng shān 鳳凰山) and dān cōng 单枞 oolongs. This several hundred-year-old way of preparing tea was originally developed to make low-grade teas more palatable through skillful brewing. It traditionally relies on locally produced teas (namely dān cōng 单枞) and teapots[1], using only three cups[2] that are arranged to form the character pǐn 品 (taste). This character is said to symbolize in abbreviated form the word pǐndé 品德, which means ‘virtuous character’ or ‘morality’. Three brews are served[3], with the tea being directly poured into the cups in a circular fashion (known as ‘Lord Guān patrols the city’ / Guāngōng xún chéng 關公巡城[4]). The last drops coming from the teapot, which contains the strongest liquor, are then distributed evenly by shaking it downwardly (known as ‘Hán Xìn selects the troops’ / Hán Xìn diǎn bīng 韓信點兵[5]). Once the tea is served and as a sign of respect, the first cup is offered to the oldest guest among the three that are present, with the last one given to the youngest person[6]. When drinking from the cup, tea is traditionally drunk in three sips; the first one to appreciate the aroma and moisten the lips; the second one to appreciate the flavor; the third one to keep a final aftertaste. Nowadays, Cháozhōu 潮州市 style gōng fu chá 功夫茶 expresses itself through a diversity of procedural variations and is used to brew other types of unrolled oolongs such as yán chá 岩茶 (rock tea) from the Wǔyí mountains 武夷山.
- Ideal for: People already familiar with tea or looking to further explore the complexity of rock (yán chá 岩茶) and phoenix oolong teas (dān cōng 单枞)
- Teas shared: Organic, naturally grown, artisan Taiwanese teas, Chinese yán chá 岩茶, dān cōng 单枞 (will be tailored based on the event and availability)
- Number of guests: 2 – 3
- Duration: 60 min
Notes
[1] The use of gàiwǎns 蓋碗 is also common.
[2] The common theories for the use of three cups are several: the three cups mimic the character pǐn 品 (which means ‘to taste’ and is composed of three ‘mouth’ radicals); they symbolize the trinity of Heaven, Earth and Human; they represent Buddhism and the Triple Gem of Buddha, Dharma and Sangha; they are based on Daoism and The Doctrine of the Trinity (from the Dào Dé Jīng 道德经: “The Dao produced One; One produced Two; Two produced Three; Three produced All things”).
[3] Brews are usually very quick (only a few seconds) depending on the tea and the brewer’s calibration. Therefore, teapots must have a very quick pour in order to prevent the tea from being over-brewed.
[4] Refers to the famous general of the Three Kingdoms (Sānguó shídài 三國時代) period, Guān Yǔ 關羽, making a round around a walled fortress. He was a Chinese military general serving under the warlord Liú Bèi 劉備 during the late Eastern Han (Dōnghàn 東漢) dynasty of China. Guān Yǔ played a significant role in the events leading up to the end of the Hàn 漢 dynasty and the establishment of Liú Bèi’s state of Shǔ Hàn 蜀漢 during the Three Kingdoms period.
[5] Hán Xìn 韓信 was a well-known Chinese military general who greatly contributed to the formation of the Hàn 漢 dynasty. He is best remembered as a brilliant military leader for the strategies and tactics he employed in warfare, some of which became the origins of certain Chinese idioms. He was named as one of the Three Heroes of the early Hàn dynasty (Hàn chū sān jié 漢初三傑), along with Zhāng Liáng 張良 and Xiāo Hé 蕭何.
[6] This is called ‘xiān zūn hòu bēi, xiān lǎo hòu yòu 先尊後卑、先老後幼’, which literally means ‘first the respectable [person], then the lower [person] / first the old, then the young’. It is also considered disrespectful to the guests to be served after the host (‘The barbarian host deceives the guests’ / Mán zhǔ qī kè 蠻主欺客).
The wēi chá 煨茶 practice’s foundations take their roots from the zhǔ chá 煮茶 (boiled tea) ritual (also referred to as wéi lú zhǔ chá 围炉煮茶 – preparing tea by the fire), that organically emerged from folk traditions and ethnic minorities in China’s Yúnnán 云南 Province. In the context of zhǔ chá 煮茶, freshly harvested tea leaves are roasted in a pot, to which boiling water is added and left over the huǒtáng 火塘[1]. The tea is then slowly boiled for several minutes before being consumed. This particular way of preparing tea then spread and gained in popularity during the Táng dynasty 唐朝 (618–690, 705–907) among the nobility and literati, turning it into a more refined practice (jiān chá 煎茶 / decocted tea), greatly influenced by Lù Yǔ 陸羽’s (729-804) prominent work, the ‘Chá Jīng’ 茶經 (Classic of Tea). Apart from its cultural significance – still visible in Tibet since the historical Ancient Tea Horse Road (chá mǎ gǔ dào 茶馬古道) and the trading of hēi chá 黑茶 – the zhǔ chá 煮茶 practice is known for its health benefits and meditative qualities. The tradition then further evolved, whose heritage is now being reflected through the more modern wēi chá 煨茶 brewing technique and its singular philosophy. In this particular approach, tea leaves (generally charcoal roasted / heavily oxidised / aged oolongs) are inserted inside a small brewing vessel such as a teapot[2] along with boiling water, left to simmer for several minutes over a small stove (fēng lú 风炉), with the tea then directly decanted into the cups. The uniqueness of this method resides in the meticulous crafting of one single brew, designed to highlight the finest, most distinctive traits of the tea’s profile and character, bringing the art of tea to a brand new level of expression.
- Ideal for: People looking to experience the singular essence of this practice and its brewing technique
- Teas shared: Charcoal roasted / heavily oxidized / aged oolongs (will be tailored based on the event and availability)
- Number of guests: 2 – 4
- Duration: 60 min
Notes
[1] A huǒtáng 火塘 is a stone stove that is principally used for heating in Yúnnán 云南. It is an important source of heat and light that aids cooking, sleeping, and even facilitates interpersonal relationships and gatherings in the households of ethnic minorities in the region.
[2] In some circumstances, Raphaël will use a gàiwǎn 蓋碗 instead of a teapot, which is rather uncommon for this particular practice.
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Inspired by the Japanese traditional way of incense (Kōdō 香道), the Chakōro 茶香炉 (lit. “tea incense burner” in Japanese) ritual involves the gentle heating of tea leaves over candlelight, aiming to gradually release their natural aroma into the air and create a soothing, ambient atmosphere for the guests to appreciate. In contrast to the use of conventional incense, the Chakōro 茶香炉 ritual offers a subtle, unobtrusive, and smokeless experience, contributing to the emergence of a new, mindful dialogue with the essence of tea. This informal experience offers two layers of contemplation: an olfactory one, expressed through the scent emanating from the tea leaves; and a visual one, conveyed through the dance of the candle’s flame and the light it emits. Colored by quietude and tranquility, this practice purifies the space and the mind, while adding a new sensorial layer and dimension to the tea tasting session. While the Chakōro 茶香炉 ritual can be conducted independently, Raphaël specifically crafted it to be an inherent part of an organoleptic tea experience, aiming to further enhance the tea’s aromatic landscape and introspective nature of its languages.
- Ideal for: People looking to experience a unique, subtle, complementary sensorial layer during a tea experience.
- Teas shared: Same as the tea used for brewing ; organic, naturally grown, artisan Taiwanese teas (will be tailored based on the event and availability)
- Number of guests: 2 – 4
- Duration: Variable depending on the tea experience
Note
The Chakōro 茶香炉 ritual can only be offered in conjunction with one of the tea experiences conducted by Raphaël and during specific events.